1930's Hints And Tips Part 2

With the snow falling outside could there be anything better to do but keep a promise? So here is part 2 of Hints and Tips, 1930’s style, interspersed with advertisements from the sponsors. Where would we be without then and where are they now?

CARBURETTERS AND FUEL SYSTEM

FLOODING

58. If the flooding persists, try the effect of lowering the float a short distance, say 1/16in. down the needle; this is accomplished by filing a small nick in the needle the required distance under the existing nick and anchoring the float at this point. Finally, see that the carburettor is fitted absolutely vertical.

BRAKES

Care of Linings

38.- Washing off Grease

Attention to a few small details will often turn poor brakes into quite efficient ones. Grease on the linings, due to over-lubrication of the hubs, is a frequent cause of inefficiency. Examine the linings, therefore, and if there is plenty of wear left, wash them thoroughly with petrol, using a small stiff brush, such as a nail brush, and allow them to dry. Do not burn off the petrol by setting the linings alight; this may fuse the wire bonding.

ELECTRICAL ACCESSORIES

Voltage Control

23. Present-day motor cycles are almost invariably fitted with voltage control of the dynamo, i.e., the lighting system incorporates a device that regulates the output of the dynamo according to the state of charge of the battery. Owners of older systems can usually obtain conversion parts from the makers of their particular set.

BOWDEN CABLES

Soldering

Soldering a Nipple

34. Soldering a Bowden nipple is an easy job, but requires care if it is to be done efficiently. First, the soldering iron must be properly “tinned”, or, in other words, covered with a bright, silvery coating of solder. The bit should be heated, its point filed clean, and then, before it has time to cool, dipped in the flux and rubbed on a stick of solder.

Before a Bowden cable is severed, the wire must be bound by an impregnation of solder, or it will immediately unravel when cut unless it happens to be of the special “non-unravel” type. Apply a little flux to a section of the wire about half an inch long at the spot where it is to be cut. Then dip the hot iron into the flux, and, pressing it on to a stick of solder, pick up a blob. Run the solder into the cable vary carefully, making sure that all the interstices are filled. When the solder has set, the wire can be safely cut with a sharp pair of pliers.

If an old nipple is to be used again, all the old solder must be run out by pressing the hot iron against it and then tapping it to dislodge the molten solder. A gas flame will do the job even more easily than the iron. The nipple must, of course, be absolutely clean. Then, having dipped the end of the cable into the flux, thread the nipple on to the wire, leaving about 1/16^th in. (or rather less, depending upon the type of nipple) protruding, and apply some more flux to the cup of nipple itself.

Pick up some solder with the iron, and apply it to the nipple, allowing the solder to run down inside the nipple. Then, with an old clean penknife or a clean screwdriver, turn back the separate strands of the protruding cable, and splay them out radially in the cup of the nipple. Finally, fill the cup with solder, and the job will be complete. If this method is adopted a perfectly neat job will result, and, due to the splaying out of strands, there will be no chance of the nipple pulling off.

The book is full of advice for the home mechanic with helpful tips from an era when a motorcycle was a cheap form of transport for families. How times change. When consumables become more expensive and motorcycles are seldom seen in bad weather. Cheap winter hacks seem few and far between today and appear to be more costly than buying an old car.

In the days of central heating, working from home, better public transport (?), the question and answer can be the same two words. Why bother.

1930's Hints And Tips

Recently while having nothing better to do, I was browsing through some books on the shelf. Ian has several motorcycle related volumes and a small publication that was almost hidden attracted my attention.

Published in the late 1930’s by Iliffe & Sons Ltd of London and issued by The MotorCycle magazine was the 13th edition of Hints and Tips for MotorCyclists. Inside there are 721 hint and tips of historical interest, a few of which Ian put to the test in his budding motorcycling youth. There is also a small advertisers section at the back. To prove that using well known faces is nothing new, we see Stanley Woods claiming that motorcycles run better on Mobiliol ‘D’.


Below, I have reproduced a few to serve as a reminder as to how things were for the motorcyclists of yesteryear.

ELECTRICAL ACCESSORIES

Speedometer Lamp

21. A speedometer lamp is a useful accessory, especially if much night-riding is done in built-up areas. All new machines have their speedometers floodlit internally. In the case of an old mount, it is possible to obtain a clip-on or bolted-on speedometer lamp at a cost of two or three shillings.

CARBURETTERS AND FUEL SYSTEM

Removing Dents from a Tank

75. When a tank or similar sheet-metal container has been damaged it is usually impossible to remove the dent by pressing it back from the inside, owing to the difficulty of inserting a suitable tool. If, however, the tank is of comparatively light sheet metal the dent can sometimes be pulled back by soldering a bolt head in it and pulling on the bolt.

RIDING METHODS

Hills

134. When a steep and slippery hill has to be ascended, as in a trial, especially with a sidecar outfit, to lower the pressure in the rear tyre. If there is time before the next hill, pump it up again.

RIDING KIT

Rubber Ponchos

450. In the days of long-distance trials ponchos were the experienced competition rider’s choice. They are made of black rubber with a cloth backing and are slipped over the head. Two types of neck opening are obtainable: (1) flexible rubber, and (2) a gusseted affair with a hook and press-studs, or with a Zipp fastener. The latter is the more convenient so far as putting on and taking off the poncho is concerned, and lasts better, but the former, due to the soft rubber clinging to the neck, naturally makes a more watertight “joint”.
Protecting the Legs

461. Many riders attach the straps on waders to their trouser buttons. A better scheme, however, is either to fix them to a small strap encircling one’s waist, or to attach a tape to the straps and loop this tape over one’s shoulders. As a result the early loss of trouser buttons will be prevented if nothing else! Straps round the ankles, or even rubber bands cut from an old car-size inner tube, will facilitate walking around in the waders, but if the waders are made too tight round the ankles the circulation will, of course, be affected.

(Ted’s tip is to invest in a pair of Wadagard ™ Motor Cyclists’ Boots. See advertisement below).
Cloth Caps

467. Ordinary cloth caps, so long as they fit well and have a large, waterproof peak are good, but they seldom stay on quite so well at speed as does a good ski-cap.

(Ted’s tip is to use in conjunction with the Jefco ™ Face Screen. See advertisement below).
Scarves

485. If funds will run to it, there is nothing to beat an angora-wool scarf for softness, warmth and general comfort. However, any good wool scarf will serve, but it should be long enough to encircle the neck twice and still reach the waist. Many riders arrange their scarves so that one end runs right down the front and passes between their legs; in this way it prevents wind and cold finding their way past the openings in the coat and trousers.

TOURING AND CAMPING

Finding Accommodation

536. If when on tour you do not happen to have a list of places at which suitable accommodation is obtainable, and no arrangements have been made beforehand, plan to end your day’s run not later than, say, six o’clock. Having arrived at the village or town at which you intend spending the night, seek out a local policeman or call in to see one of the innkeepers. These worthies as a rule can suggest houses where inexpensive, good accommodation is obtainable, assuming that is what you desire. If on the other hand you want an hotel the local policeman is generally the best man from whom to seek advice.

WORKSHOP AND USE OF TOOLS

Coin Measurements

721. Although a set of rules should always find a place in the amateur mechanic’s equipment, it sometimes happens that measurements are required without the necessary items being available. In such instances it is worth knowing that the following coins represent certain definite measurements:

One penny : 1/10th of a foot in diameter.

A sixpence : ¾ in. diameter.

Half-crown : 1¼ in. diameter.

Five halfpennies or three pennies weigh one ounce.



Now where did I put those old coins?



Here are the advertisements that are useful in conjunction with tips 461 and 467 respectively.




Even today, a long distance motorcyclist may find one of these useful. I'll have to get one of these for Ian's next birthday.


If anyone would like to read some more of these just leave a comment and 2 numbers between 1 and 720, omitting the ones already previewed.